Here’s a late-breaking addition to the Must Haves (that little column to the left): a newly arrived zipper coal bag from ACL that just happens to be the perfect beach bag. It’s light, unassuming canvas, easily washable if you get in too much salt, with a zipper across the top to keep out the sand.
It’s simple, but for the occasion, that’s just what’s needed. Well played, Mr. Williams.
Kempt compatriot and American hero Michael Williams (better known as the man behind A Continuous Lean) is out in Vegas for the Project trade show. Things got a bit weird, but he managed to file the following dispatch for Kempt. Godspeed, Michael!
Being in the apparel business, coming to Las Vegas trade shows are a necessary evil. The adventure begins at the airport when you see twenty people you know load in to what is endearingly referred to as the “garmento express,” a plane where you can’t walk to the bathroom without hearing someone say “feel this quality.” Once you arrive and get yourself settled in, the ping pinging of the slot machines gives way to the soft embrace of convention center fluorescent lights.
American manufacturing has been hit pretty hard lately, but boutique brands have a little more flexibility…and at least some of them are staying put.
Of course, it’s hard to know for sure, so A Continuous Lean has put together The American List, a handy guide to which brands are manufactured stateside, and it’s required reading for anyone interested in modern Americana. It’s also a surprisingly short list.
Our favorites are Red Wing, Billykirk, and Engineered Garments, but it’s striking how much they all have in common. There’s a lot of denim, a lot of flannel, and a lot of weathered fabrics; it’s what you might call the American style.
At least, the part of it that isn’t made in China.
Apparently the death of the tie is a pretty touchy subject for some. A Continuous Lean got their own little bit of Olch-related blowback, but apparently MR Magazine got it a fair bit worse. That’s trade papers for you: everyone’s an insider.
There may have been more life in the necktie than we thought.
A Continuous Lean weighs in on the Death of the Tie with a WSJ editorial from professional tie man Alexander Olch. Apparently Olch isn’t worried. He points to rising tie-wearing among the youth, and blames overseas production for the slump in U.S. manufacturing.
Fair enough, but we bet he was open-collared when he wrote that.
A Continuous Lean clued us in to this early instance of Sartorialist-style fashion photography. Photographer T. Hayashida took a tour of the Ivy League circa 1968, snapping pictures for posterity. Given that preppy style of that era is a touchstone for everyone from J. Crew to Shipley & Halmos, there’s more than a few pointers to pick up if you’re watching closely.
*Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.*
A MOTH likes his WOTH s, WWLs, and whatever they call the gratuitous knockouts in *GQ* just fine, but it’s exceedingly rare to find all the qualities one desires in just one woman. Often we’ve found that at least two are required.
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