Fashion Week Hangover #2
We return to our runway recaps, detailing the top ten Kempt looks from Fashion Week. It’s important to note here that since most men’s collections are revealed to marketers and buyers two weeks before the big festivities under the tents, most designers have a two-week jump on the women’s clothiers, allowing for laid-back, open-bar presentations here and there. This may or may not have been a good thing. We’ll have to check with our sponsor.
**8. Loden Dager:**
A little-known brand in the big scheme of things, Loden Dager has gained a good deal of popular support from editors and insiders. Some of this is due to it’s colorful cast of designers, but more of it has to do with their intriguing mix of prep and subversion. Yes, yes, at their presentation (white wine) there were flat-front pants and simple overcoats a plenty. But the careful use of oversized checks, wide collars and bold color palettes made these familiar, almost conservative forms new and inviting. In particular, a ghostly slate three-piece suit was a winner. [Paper Magazine]
**7. Robert Geller:**
You may or may not recall Geller from his work with Cloak and his appearances on our brother site. A crafty interpretor of fringe styles (last season his show had a SoCal skater vibe) the designer turned to straight-up rock this winter. This was a dark, deft collection that recalled Hedi Silmane and DIor Homme without the lingering — and there’s no better way to say this — gay flavor. Splitting the difference between already waning skinny-leg trends and tailored-suit trousers, his gray pants were both sensible and dashing. More important than anything though, were Geller’s military-inspired coats and shirts. We know what you’re saying, “so Strokes circa 2002.” Good point, but we guarantee if you pick up anything from this brooding line, you’ll forget all about such minor quibbles. [Men.Style]
- — Gabriel Bell