jiandeleonvia tucked

Walk into any shirting outfit (the new J.Crew Ludlow Shop, for instance) and you’re likely to see two different classes of button-up. There’s the soft, casual kind—your oxford shirts, your flannels—and then there’s the iron-ready, stiff-collared dress shirts that dominate the modern business uniform.

In the heady workwear days (say, mid-2008), you might have been inclined to skip the latter category altogether, and a lot of people did. The stiff shirts were boring, the kind of thing bankers wore. But with the rise of Italian style, the dress shirt is suddenly essential again—and there’s a specific look that sets it apart from the banker-ready version. If you were wondering what to wear underneath your Isaia DB, look no further.

You’ve already heard us gush about the cutaway collar, but it’s just one of the offbeat collars that’s popped up on the market. You can also check out a rounded club version from Miller’s Oath or Thom Browne’s end-on-end spread.

We’re also seeing smaller, more intricate checks that stick to the same color family, which lets you add texture with less risk of clashing.

And finally, the fabric. This is an advanced move, so be careful, but if you can successfully move beyond the usual brushed cotton, you’ll be in rare company.

And if you have a few checked sport coats handy, it certainly wouldn’t hurt.

—R.B.

CONTRIBUTORS

  • Russell Brandom