Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

The Buy Line: $125 MTM Shirts

  • Kempt Staff

061914_MTM-Shirt-Proper-Cloth

Welcome back to The Buy Line, where we analyze how the new market forces of menswear—driven by the Internet and the rise of a more savvy consumer—have redefined where the intersection of well-made and well-priced lands. And when it comes to made-to-measure shirts, it would appear that the buy line has settled at $125.

Naturally, you could spend more on a shirt from one of the bigger names—or even go bespoke—but we’ve rounded up your best options for just over a Benjamin.»

Russell Westbrook Is Teaming Up with Barneys

  • Kempt Staff

061214_Russell-Westbrook-FashionWe may be entering the golden age of the athlete menswear designer...

Today, Women’s Wear Daily reports that Russell Westbrook and Barneys New York have just inked a design deal for a multi-brand capsule collection that will run for a number a seasons. This comes on the heels of the news that David Beckham is designing a collection for Belstaff. Add to that the stuff Dwyane Wade has been doing with Tie Bar and Del Toro, and we’re starting to see a trend.

There’s still a lot to be seen from the collaboration with Westbrook, who you’ll recognize from NBA press conferences as the guy in the loud shirts and thick-rimmed glasses, but having labels like Marcelo Burlon, Want Les Essentiels and Selima Optique already attached bodes well.

Here’s a sneak peek at the first sketch-up, after the jump:»

The Buy Line: $300 Benchgrade Shoes

  • Kempt Staff

060214_Grenson_Marcel-Tassel-Loafer As you may recall, we introduced “the buy line” a couple weeks ago with the new breed of $500 suit.

And now we’re moving on to another menswear staple that has become more attainable and readily available lately: benchgrade shoes. While it’s a loosely defined term, depending on which shoemaker you ask, it’s generally accepted that benchgrade means you're getting welted soles, shoes made in smaller batches and hand-finishing during some if not all stages of construction--while not necessarily made-to-order or custom. And we’ve been noticing that the going rate for a quality budget-conscious pair has settled right around $300.

Naturally, you could spend much more, but here are your best options for about three large ones...»

The Buy Line: $500 Suits

  • Najib Benouar

050814_Knot-Standard-Glenplaid

Menswear has come a long way in the past decade.

Even as recently as five years ago, you’d be hard-pressed to find a well-cut suit sourced from an Italian mill without knowing the right tailor and spending at least a grand. But nowadays, thanks to a generally more sophisticated generation of suit wearers (we’d like to take some of the credit for that), globalization and a re-booming business sector, you can get a pretty darn good suit for about 500 bucks. It’s the number we’ve noticed that market forces have settled upon—something we like to call “the buy line.” The same way a good pair of bench-made shoes or a tailored broadcloth dress shirt no longer requires a trip to Savile Row or a small fortune (more on those later down the line).

But first, let’s get to the suits.»

Jacket Companies Making Things Besides Jackets

  • Najib Benouar

042814_Barbour-Watches

We’ve been noticing a startling new trend in menswear: jacket companies are diversifying their portfolios.

First we heard that venerable coaterie Barbour was getting into the watch game. Then there was something about Patagonia selling food. And with a bit more digging, we found even more options to buy non-outerwear gear from your favorite jacket makers.

Let’s take a look at the new ventures from these enterprising labels.»

GQ Makes Us Wonder: What Is Menswear Anymore?

  • Najib Benouar

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Today GQ announced their nominees for this year’s Best New Menswear Designer—a coveted honor they’ve been bestowing upon the young Billy Reids and Thom Brownes of the menswear world for nearly a decade now.

But just take a look at this paneled photo of this year’s nominees. It could very well be a menswearified “one of these things is not like the others” puzzle from a Highlights magazine. (Hint: it’s the guy in the suit.)

That’s because only one of the nominees, Brooklyn Tailors, makes “menswear” in the traditional sense. The other three (John Elliott + Co, M. Nii and En Noir) might as well be in T-shirts and sweats. Oh wait, they all are.

Which got us thinking deeply about the current state of how we dress and where this crazy thing called “menswear” is headed...»

Fall Report: Crowdfunding Menswear

  • Kempt Staff

b52fcb5ecfdd7bfd1da8b9ff6fdfb9f7_largeFall is so close, we can taste it (very spiced-cider-y this year). So, in anticipation of the monumental shift in your wardrobe, leisure activities and general state-of-mind, we’re dedicating this week to preparing you for all of your upcoming autumnal endeavors...

If you haven’t heard, menswear is a boomtown right now, and the real movers and shakers are building their brands from the ground up on sites like Kickstarter and Indiegogo. Herewith, this season’s brightest crowdfunding stars: »

And the Award Goes To...

  • Najib Benouar

GQ Awards

Just when you thought awards season was over...

GQ has just announced this year’s crop of Best New Menswear Designers—a coveted honor they’ve been bestowing upon the young Billy Reids and Thom Brownes of the menswear world for the past decade now—and this year’s four winners run the gamut from laid-back surfer chic (Aviator Nation) to tailored gear with Savile Row lineage (Bespoken) to Jay-Z’s favorite chino maker (Baldwin) and menswear’s newest favorite bag maker (Ernest Alexander).

If you recall, last year GQ upped the stakes by having each winner design a small capsule collection sold exclusively at Gap across the nation. You’ll have to wait until fall to get your hands on this year’s batch of well-priced handsomeness, so to tide you over, take a look at our favorites from the inaugural collaborations.