May 21, 2012 world of men's style / fashion / grooming RSS
“Bad Idea/Good Idea”
05/03/12
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Regarding Your Derby Hat for Saturday

We’ve spent the past few days getting excited about the Kentucky Derby but we’d be remiss not to mention Cinco de Mayo is also on Saturday. So, in the spirit of bipartisanship, an intrepid soul might want to top off his seersucker suit with a stately sombrero. (A time-efficient way to dress for both parties you’ll be attending.) We’re not going to outright endorse the idea, but we’ll leave you with this: when dealing with anything costume-y, you should proceed with caution and aplomb. Remember, your sartorial reputation is at stake, so make sure it’s nothing flimsy or that you received for your birthday at a restaurant. We’d suggest keeping it authentic—like one of these from El Paso, let’s say—and knowing when it’s time to take it off.

Most importantly: it’s not a license to mix bourbon into your margarita.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
03/06/12
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The Paint-Splattered Look

Here’s your microtrend of the day: paint.

It started with this “Action-Painting Backpack” from Eastpak—a handsome take on an otherwise standard backpack. But no sooner did it appear in our RSS reader than a more ambitious project popped up, the one pictured to the left. It’s a full suit tailored from an artist’s drop cloth. That means those paint splatters are entirely random, just whatever drops happened to fall on the floor. The artist in question is Hugh O’Rourke, a New York-based painter who happens to be friends with the right bloggers-turned-tailors.

The drop cloth also means the fabric is a good deal rougher than what you’re used to from your tailor, but we’re guessing it goes over pretty well at gallery openings.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
ADVERTISEMENT
02/29/12
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Ann Landers On: The Male Earring

Ann Landers

Certain questions regarding matters of gentlemanly style and grace have repeated themselves for decades. Case in point: on three separate occasions—once in 1966 and twice in 1984—Ann Landers was asked for her advice on the subject of male earrings. Given Morgan Freeman’s bizarre determination to keep the fad alive in 2012, we felt it was as good a time as any to revisit the 50-year-old issue. To that end, in unauthorized collaboration with “Ask Ann Landers” circa 1943-2002, Kempt presents the first in a series of 2012 answers to questions posed by the style-seekers of yesteryear.

Ann Landers (and Kempt) on the male earring…»
 

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
02/16/12
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

5 Times You’re Allowed to Wear Scarves Indoors

When it comes to men wearing scarves indoors, there isn’t necessarily a hard-and-fast rule one way or the other. The ascot, a haughty great-uncle of the scarf, has been a mainstay for centuries, and a handful of notably well-dressed men have successfully pulled off the look of late.

Here’s the thing, though…»

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
01/31/12
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Facial Hair Is Not a Treadmill

A reminder: it’s best to think of facial hair as an accessory. Ask too much of it and, like a loud pair of shades or an overused pocket square, it will eventually let you down. To that end, we respectfully offer:

Four things facial hair can’t do…»
 

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
ADVERTISEMENT
01/27/12
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The Shoe Tan

Here’s your experimental footwear of the week, courtesy of our old friend George Esquivel. It’s a quasi-brogue made from a single sheet of unbroken leather. (The pattern comes from a selective sun-dyeing.) One more reason to remember your sunscreen.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
01/18/12
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Everything is Wrong with Dress Pant Sweatpants

Just as declining bee populations have recently signified a larger, potentially apocalyptic environmental crisis, there have been a handful of style trends throughout history that, when examined up against the broader cultural landscape of the day, have served as distress signals of something very, very wrong with our society.

Well gentlemen, one of those signals is blinking right now: Dress Pant Sweatpants.»
 

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
12/19/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The Santa Hat

We’d like to be clear on this.

We do not endorse wearing a Santa hat to every party you attend over the next two weeks—especially if any of the parties in question are Kwanzaa-themed. There will be cameras, old friends and alcohol. A single costume-y element—like, say, a socklike, red velvet topper—could throw the whole thing out of whack, doing permanent damage to your reputation and your dignity.

However, if you decide to disregard all warning and go forward with your bizarre festivities, you will find an appropriately luxurious Santa hat here.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
11/17/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

All Blackwatch Everything

We do not necessarily endorse the project of outfitting yourself in head-to-toe blackwatch plaid.

However, if you decide to take it on and ascend to your rightful place in the fall/winter hall of fame, you’ll find a suitable shirt, scarf, blazer, smoking jacket, peacoat, boxer shorts, umbrella and kilt here.

And by all means, send us a picture.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
11/08/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Your New Life Coach

You face many decisions in this life.

You’re able to work through most of them with some combination of wisdom, luck and intuition—but sometimes you need more. You need a trusted adviser. You need a visionary. You need a pen with a Magic 8 Ball in it.

Get ready, world.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
10/13/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The Digital Pocket Watch

As you know, we love a good pocket watch. But we draw the line at the digital ones.

The creation before you comes from Flud Watches, a streetwear-minded accessory shop that’s decided to jump into the pocket watch game. The problem is, if you’re not wearing a suit, it’s going to look like a chain wallet; and if you are wearing a suit, it’s just going to look unfortunate.

Still, we have to respect the ambition. Maybe Kanye can pull it off?

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
06/21/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Pith and Vinegar

pithhelmut_cropSee it full size.

This snap comes from the latest Woolrich Woolen Mills collection (designed by Mr. McNairy), recently unveiled at Pitti Uomo. And while we’d normally wait until it’s in stores, we noticed something so game-changing, we couldn’t help but call your attention to it.

Ladies and gentlemen, pith helmets are now officially a thing.

This is one of two photos that finds a sharp-but-woodsy gentleman doffing the colonial topper. To be honest, we’ve been waiting years to bring out ours. Just think of it as the harder-nosed cousin to the panama hat, perfect whether you’re hitting the rooftop pool scene or exploring Madagascar.

Also, be ready to look a little bit ridiculous.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
05/24/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The Return of the Safety Pin

Kanye West

After decades as a punk mainstay, the safety pin looks to be making a comeback.

It started with Kanye’s Tory Burch tux, held closed by a single pin, but now San Francisco’s Unionmade Goods is signing on with a series of leather-tagged pins from RTF. The idea is to use them the same way Kanye did: to close a jacket or a scarf when a button would be too predictable. Instead of nihilist abandon, the effect is something like casual deconstruction—as if your jacket just happened to leave the factory without a front buttonhole, so you grabbed whatever was at hand.

It’s also ripe for DIYing if you decide to sign on. Just be warned, before you go poking holes in your favorite suits: this is one of those trends you hear about…which means the shelf life is probably pretty short.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
04/07/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The Single Most Important Detail When Buying a Jacket

shipleyshort_crop.jpg

Buying a jacket’s one of the more complex wardrobe decisions a man can make. There’s the snug shoulder, the placement of the buttons, the lapel width and—to pick a recent menswear hobby horse—padded vs. reconstructed shoulders.

And while that’s all important stuff, there’s something even more crucial that’s gone almost completely unmentioned. And unlike the others, which usually work themselves out among the higher-end brands, it varies wildly depending on where you go. It’s a huge, bold statement that most men don’t even know they’re making.

But naturally, you’re going to have to click through to find out what it is»

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
03/22/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Rehabbing Your Shoes With Acetone: The Second Most Dangerous Game

acetone_crop.jpg

As a follow-up to our grand opus on shoe maintenance, a few of you have written in suggesting a more unorthodox solution: rubbing down your scuffed shoes with acetone.

First, we should tell you that this is a bad idea. It’s unnecessary for most scuffs, the acetone will numb your fingers for months and there’s a distinct chance you’ll accidentally set yourself on fire.

If you know what’s good for you, you’ll put down the chemicals, bring your shoes to a professional and never speak of this again.

But, just in case you’re unconvinced, we’re going to tell you how to do it.

Just don’t say you weren’t warned»

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
03/15/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The Working Man’s Fanny Pack

beltpack_crop.jpg

Storage is never pretty. In fact, we’d probably opt for pocketless pants if we didn’t have all this stuff to carry. Our general rule is, the more discreet, the better. Which is why, for all its military canvas cred, we have to cast a slightly skeptical eye at this Woolrich belt pack.

It bumps hard against the main limit of workwear: you’re not actually a carpenter. (Apologies to any actual carpenters.)

In the case of work boots, it’s fine to have a little more durability than you strictly need. But in the case of this belt pack, it’s hard to avoid the question of what you’ll actually put in them. If the answer is a hammer, a tape measure and roofing nails, then you’re fine. But if the answer involves your iPhone, you might be better off with pockets.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
03/08/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Your Absurd Indulgence of the Summer

silverjulepcup_crop.jpg

One cannot have everything one wants, in this life.

Among those things: this solid silver julep cup, weighing in at $740. It’s a ridiculous, insane amount to spend on an item with only one conceivable use. And yet, the idea of sipping sweet bourbon from a solid silver goblet a few months from now—possibly under a willow tree, while wearing a cream-colored three-piece suit—is too tempting to dismiss entirely.

Just remember to hold it by the top and bottom rims to keep the drink frosty—a finer point of julep etiquette. And maybe wait until there’s a dip in the price of silver.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
02/11/11
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The Cargo Pant Dresses Up

ascotchangcargo_crop.jpg

Ladies and gentlemen, feast your eyes on the first controversy of Fashion Week: the semi-formal cargo pant.

It comes from Ascot Chang’s recent show (courtesy of Sartorially Inclined) and we’re not quite sure how to feel about it.

The cargo pant has attracted a lot of followers lately—not least Mark McNairy and Rogues Gallery—but it’s mostly been in a rugged, day-at-the-lumber-mill mode. Move the same pocket to a more traddish milieu and it seems too daring for its own good. Or maybe just daring enough…

Allow us to elaborate»

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
12/16/10
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

No Cars Go

cargopants_crop.jpg

Until recently, cargo pants were universally reviled. But in the past couple years, a handful brave souls have rolled out subdued versions of the mid-90s sartorial nightmare—Steven Alan, Apolis Activism and Rogues Gallery, to name a few. They weren’t exactly the old version; they always stayed slim enough, with small enough pockets, to seem like they’d arrived from an alternate universe where the 90s never happened.

But now…there’s this»

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
12/14/10
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Our Socks Runneth Over

gantsocks_crop.jpg

You may have noticed this look popping up on a few unusually forward-thinking boots this winter. All you need is a pair of work boots, a pair of large, thick boot socks and the gumption to pull them over your pant cuffs.

With the rise of Red Wing and slim-cut pants, it’s amazing it didn’t happen sooner. The only question is whether it’s actually a good idea…and we’re leaning towards no.

Here’s why…»

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
11/18/10
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Socks and Scandals

wwmss11_crop.jpg

The newly arrived Woolrich Woolen Mills lookbook is pretty fantastic stuff, including at least three items we’d like to snap up as soon as we can think spring/summer thoughts again—but one particular styling note caught our attention as a little… off.

Direct your attention to this gentleman’s feet, and you’ll see something you haven’t seen in a lookbook in quite some time. Yes, those are socks. And sandals. Together.

For decades, it’s been considered a crunchy faux pas—unacceptable anywhere outside of a health food store—but apparently Daiki Suzuki disagrees. And while it works perfectly with the mountain-climber chic Suzuki’s aiming at, we can’t help but think the gentleman in question would look better if he switched to hiking boots, or just let his toes wiggle free.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
11/10/10
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

Turning the Corner

3mustaches_crop.jpgvia

One of these things is not like the others.

Two of these mustaches are perfectly respectable Schwartzman-esque lip coverings, happy to live out Movember with respect for their coworkers and deference to the state.

The third one (that’s him on the left) has turned the corner of the lips and is making a break for the border of the chin, where he will buy a motorcycle and make a living selling opium to tourists. And when the month of mustache ends, he might just decide to stick around.

Choose wisely.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
10/28/10
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

For That “Urban Miner” Look

pickaxe2_crop.jpg

Sometimes, it’s hard to tell if the retail world is having you on.

In the proud tradition of Best Made Axes, St. Liberty has put out a limited edition of lacquered pickaxes, retailing at $125 and befuddling bloggers starting today.

Unlike an axe, which you could plausibly use to chop wood, this one’s just furniture. Unless you’ve got a recreational coal mine connected to your cottage upstate—and if so, congratulations—this one’s going to be sitting on your wall until the zombie apocalypse comes. It’s handsome enough…but we can’t help but feel some line has been crossed.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
09/21/10
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The New Sweatpant

filmelange_crop.jpg

The sins of sweatpants are legion, but we’d nail it down to one precise factor: the fit. Or, to be even more precise, the complete absence of it. Even the trimmest pair tends to hang from the waist like a pair of unusually puffy curtains. The hate is well-earned but with mistakes like those, it shouldn’t too hard to do better, right?

Fil Melange is doing its best. These “Vonnegut” pants look like jeans from afar, but look closer and you’ll see what the description tactfully labels as “sweatshirt material.” Which is to say, yes, they’re sweatpants—but please don’t call them that.

They look pretty handsome, to be honest, and we don’t doubt they’d be the most comfortable pants in our closet. Still…this can’t help but feel like a supervillain emerging from a long prison stay. They’re reformed, we swear!

What’s the matter? Don’t you trust them?

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags
09/02/10
·
Bad Idea/Good Idea

The Uncluttering

curbtrash_crop.jpg

As you may have heard a few times before, elegance is refusal. In particular, we’d nominate the refusal to cling to that ratty pair of “housework” jeans you haven’t worn in two years.

Which is why, despite questionable web design and a strong whiff of Freeganism, we’re ready to endorse Curb Day—a festival of free piles coming up on September 25th. The truth is, you probably have too much stuff, more stuff than you want, and you need is an excuse to get rid of some of it. That includes those jeans, your yogurt maker and any number of plastic doo-dads kicking around the corners of your closet. Maybe someone else wants it…or maybe not.

But in the interest of remaining insect-free, leave the scavenging to less discerning individuals.

ALL Bad Idea/Good Idea
TAGSTags