Talking Shop: Unionmade’s Todd Barket
San Francisco’s menswear emporium Unionmade has been stocking some of the finest menswear this side of, well, anywhere for a while now—and as if that wasn’t already impressive enough, in the past few years they’ve been collaborating with some of their favorite labels to spectacular effect. With the third installment of their Indigo series hitting shelves this month and a new line of coats with Golden Bear launched on Monday, it’s almost impossible to keep up with all of the handsomeness they’re turning out. Luckily, we got to sit down with the mastermind behind it all, founder Todd Barket, to hear all about it.
Wheel Ceramic Mugs TB: For the third installment of Indigo, we decided to focus on more lifestyle items than just clothing, so for instance, we have this mug from Wheel ceramics out of New York. And we’ve filled some with our candle that we worked on with Baxter.
Small Trade Co. Car Blanket TB: Then we’ve got these indigo blankets that are amazing. They’re made of a yak wool and hemp blend that’s been hand-dyed in Japan.
Golden Bear Mack TB: We worked with Golden Bear on this mack jacket—and we cut it at a length that’s going to be trending soon. We’ve been seeing it pop up a lot in Japan. It’s our take on the classic topcoat, and just a great “San Francisco jacket.”
Journal Standard Down Tailored Jacket TB: So there’s a thousand ways to incorporate indigo into clothing and objects, which is what we’re trying to get at. We’re always trying to figure out new ways to use it. It’s this universal dye process that’s been used throughout the world—Asia, India, Africa—anywhere the plant grows, people have come up with interesting ways to use it. Most of our stuff is done in the Japanese tradition. For instance, this brushed herringbone jacket has two tones of indigo because two different yarns that were spun with different dyes got woven together to make the herringbone.
Harley of Scotland Shetland Sweater TB: Harley of Scotland is another exclusive brand we work with that does Shetland sweaters for us. They’re just a small little knitter out of Scotland that makes really great quality sweaters that we love this time of year.
Moncler W TB: For the winter gear, this new brand is pretty interesting: Moncler W, done by the designer from White Mountaineering. The outerwear has some really interesting mixes of patterns and textures. But it still feels like it’s more wearable than some of the stuff from White Mountaineering, which can get out-there.
Golden Bear 32oz. Collection TB: And lastly, we’re launching our latest exclusive collection of coats with Golden Bear, all made from 32-ounce melton wool. Four different jackets that are really heavy, Navy-grade wool, lined with chambray and made in San Francisco—we actually went to the factory to take some shots of the process and ended up doing the lookbook right in there.
- Najib Benouar