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The buttoned dress shirt is such a staple that it’s easy to overlook. That is, until an enterprising designer reminds you that it’s not all easy-irons fronts and spread collars.

Our friends at UrbanDaddy just turned us on to Lee Harkness Shirt Co., a New York shirtier (and American List candidate) with a few changes in mind. The label brings together designers Oliver Harkness (a famed vintage dealer) and Jussara Lee (a upscale woman’s designer) to create a middle ground somewhere between bespoke and vintage. The result is a line full of well-shaped club collars, tuxedo-esque pullover shirts, and shackets (high fashion for “shirt/jacket”) that give Freeman’s a run for their money, all available in sizes and made-to-measure.

Plus, beyond the usual plaids and stripes, they’ve gotten their hands on some of the same cotton twill used by the Royal Air Force, which puts them a couple of steps ahead of the pack before they even start to stitch. So far they’re only available at a couple lower Manhattan boutiques, but we can’t imagine they’ll stay a secret for long.