The birds are chirping. The trees are in bloom. The sun’s still up when you leave the office… most of the time.
Ah, isn’t spring glorious?
Now that the better weather’s here to stay, it’s about time to swap out your deep, smoky winter fragrance for more a seasonally appropriate option—that is, something light, fresh and probably with a hint of citrus. But, of course, not just any eau will do.
Fall’s so close, we can taste it (very spiced-cider-y this year). So, in anticipation of the monumental shift in your wardrobe, leisure activities and general state-of-mind, we’re dedicating this week to preparing you for all of your upcoming autumnal endeavors…
In our ongoing ruminations on black tie regalia during the lead-up to the Oscars, let us consider the little things that can make or break a tuxedo’s chances for best-dressed-list-ed glory…
As with everything menswear-related, attention to detail is paramount—we’ll spare you the lecture on how your tux should fit well (just make sure it does). We’d rather focus on the universally key factors like sizing up a lapel, the appropriateness of grosgrain and the employment of a pocket square.
There’s a fantastic piece on Anderson & Sheppard in this month’s Vanity Fair, presumably inspired by Graydon Carter’s book on the same. It gives a view of the Savile Row tailoring house from their beginnings in 1906 as a civilian reaction to the military styles that dominated men’s tailoring at the time. Over the next few decades, they more or less invented the modern business suit.
One particular surprise: just like Band of Outsiders and (gulp) Ed Hardy, their path to the top ran through Hollywood. They converted Fred Astaire and a few of his friends, and have never wanted for business since.
So to show you that British drape up close—we’ve put together a few of our favorite pics from Anderson & Sheppard’s first generation of fans, including Gary Cooper, Rudolph Valentino and Laurence Olivier.
Not everyone feels like a rock star on Fashion Week. But not everyone is Valentino.
This picture finds the emperor at Barneys’ karaoke-themed bash on Saturday night—literally surrounded by beautiful women. It may have had something to do with the madder pocket square, or his newfound affection for bracelets, or his age-defying hair…but we like to think it was just Valentino being Valentino.
Now that we’re well into the peak of summer, we’ve started pondering one of our favorite summer power moves: the white suit.
It’s a humble, gentlemanly way of saying “I get invited to a lot of semi-formal barbecues,” and nothing looks quite as sharp at a lawn party. The only problem is, it can be a little tricky to pull off.
Naturally, the usual rules of the suit still apply—snug shoulders, an appropriately hip jacket length, slight break in the trousers—but there are a couple new ones too. Luckily, we’re around to walk you through them…
Compare this ad with some of Tom Ford’s glossy stills. Ford is exactly what we expect from a men’s designer: European influences, a gay sense of irony, and a generally hypermasculine style. Advertising aside, he’s not that different from Valentino, Hedi Slimane, or any of the designers that built the industry. He’s selling couture and sex together, just like everyone else in Bloomingdale’s.
We don’t want to be unkind – oh, fuck it, why not? – but doesn’t this snap of weather-beaten couture king Valentino clutching a radiant and youthful Keira Knightley have more than touch of the [Nosferatu](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nosferatu_(word) about it? The knockout Knightley bore up well we have to say, at a screening of her new flick *The Duchess* hosted by *Vogue* and Chanel the other night.
In the flick she plays the randy snob Georgina Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire, the latest in what seems an unending streak of period roles. After yet another version of *King Lear*, she’s set to star in an adaptation of one of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s worst books, *The Beautiful and Damned* – which come to think of it makes a pretty good caption for this photo.
That eternally classic item of military-inspired menswear, the peacoat, has been interpreted in myriad different ways and fabrics over the years since it was first adopted by European navies some 250 years ago. Leave it to Hermes, however, to blow it out of the water.
For Fall, the famed house’s menswear designer Véronique Nichanian made a peacoat entirely of top-grade crocodile skin that will set you back a cool $150,000 and change, which gets our vote for the season’s most extravagant men’s item. The Hermes flagship on the Upper East Side just got in two of them, we’re told, in classic navy. You might be able to special order it another color—safety orange, say—if you’re willing to wait a few months and further decimate the crocodile population.
Frankly, we can see multiple-MOTH Cameron Silver sporting one of these for a sojourn on Valentino’s yacht or somesuch, but ordinary mortals will probably want to stick with the $120 version they sell at The Gap.
LinksUrbanDaddy DRIVEN A Continuous Lean A Headlong Dive A Suitable Wardrobe Archival Clothing Art of Manliness Blackbird Blog BULLETT The Choosy Beggar Coolhunting Cool Material DETAILS Die, Workwear! FashionBeans Four Pins GQ Hypebeast The Impossible Cool Jake Davis The Midwestyle Mister Mort The Moment Put This On Racked The Sartorialist The Selby Selectism Valet Vanity Fair Daily Vulture Wax Wane What I Saw Today Well Spent